A Walk On The Wild Side (Eng/Kor)

Posted: 2003/05/15  By: korean hiker (Views:3809)

   The Taewha river flows thru Ulsan.  Although there are a few polluted tributaries that
still run with lifeless black water, the main river has become remarkably clean.  Most days it
is possible to stand in the middle of any bridge and look down into clear water and see fish
and turtles.

   The turtles are an introduced species, the red-eared slider (also called the Cumberland
terrapin) from the United States.  They have been introduced into many habitats around the
world through the pet trade.  They are the turtles sold alive in street side market stalls.
 Intelligent and adaptable they have replaced the native Korean fresh-water turtle in many
places.

   I don't know the identity of the fish species but they grow as large as trout.  Fishermen
enjoy angling for them in the warm months and in the fall the river is choked with thousands
(I'm not kidding) of them, headed up stream (apparently) to spawn.  It is a remarkable sight,
something like seeing a salmon migration.  And it can be seen here in Ulsan, an industrial city
that is the headquarters of Hyundai.

   The river teems with bird life. Several types of egret, herons and kingfishers can be
seen on any hike.  Their numbers attest to the success of environmental consciousness in Korea.

   An interesting hike is on the south side of the river across from the Asiana Hotel,
downstream to the gates of the shipyard.  The slow transition from fresh water, through
brackish water, to salt-water can be seen in the river as reeds disappear, the river seems
without lush plant life then seaweed and the smell of brine indicate a marine habitat.  This
hike is fairly short and can be done by bicyle on the excellent hiking/bike path.  Interesting
vegetable gardens are passed along the way.

   A better hike is upstream on the same side of the river.  Across from the Asiana Hotel
you walk (or bicycle) through the large park that ends near the Koreana Hotel. Take the side
walk that runs along the road (with forested mountains on the opposite side). Just after the
service stations you will come to a farm (like a very large urban garden).  If you stay on the
main road you will come to a large and beautiful temple.

  If you choose to hike past the abandoned farm house to the river and continue upstream,
you will pass interesting crops including bamboo and a tree nursery and you will see the river
become shallower and cleaner (except for one notable blackwater tributary that carries laundry
suds). Birds, turtles and fish are plentiful.

   When you get to the pedestrian bridge you can cross it and hike back to old downtown
Ulsan (where the Asiana Hotel and the Royal Anchor pub are).  There are many ways to do this.
Along the river via a scenic hiking/bike path. Along the roads past some old style urban
neighborhoods or up through the wooded hills.

   The aforementioned pedestrian bridge gives spectacular views of the autumn fish
migrations I was talking about.  However, if you have done the pedestrian bridge route and feel
like an "iron man" workout I suggest hiking away from the river when you get to the
intersection near the pedestrian bridge.  This will take you to the Ulsan University district.
 Stop have a coffee and rest up in a PC room.  Then continue over to the stadium by the
highway. It has a very beautifully landscaped lake near it and is a joy in the fall when the
ginkos are yellow and the maples are red.

  A hike along the highway back into town is interesting.  You pass ponds and farms and soon
come to the big 'roundabout' that sports the white statue of a lady and the 'heroic workers'
statue (probably purchased from some eastern European country when the iron-curtain fell and
they unloaded all their 'heroic worker kitsch' for a song).

  A better way to go is up through the hills that parallel the highway. Beautiful conifer
forests that are full of squirrels and very large hares (the first time I saw one I mistook it
for a small deer) and interesting birds.  Often the silence is broken by cuckoos who can be
heard but not seen. After hearing the incessant cry of these parasitic-egg-layers non-stop
"cuckoo,cuckoo, cuckoo..." you began to understand the meaning of "he's gone koo-koo"

   And if you get lost and wander out into an unknown highway follow it. It will take you
past some interesting glass "green-houses", beautiful farms (especially in fall when the
persimmons hang like oranges on the bare trees) to the crossroads (right takes you to the oil
refinery and left to the "heroic labor" roundabout).

   These 'walkabouts' are always interesting, any time of year.  And a good way to see
dimensions of the Korean landscape that you will never experience in the hogwan, pub or on tv.